Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Sapporo to Tokyo

Eric was convinced that I would be happier in Tokyo, after I saw all the sights in Sapporo in half a day (that is entirely not true, most of the sights are outside the city; the parks and natural wonders are stunning, but I did not see them). He encouraged me to go to Tokyo for a few days so he could focus on his work and networking rather than be concerned that he was abandoning me. I was not entirely sure that this was a good idea, but it was easy to change my ticket, so I woke up early to catch a train back to Chitose airport and flew on Jetstar back to Tokyo. It was a long day of traveling. I decided to return to the same hotel as before, so I would not waste time looking for a new hotel in a new area, but despite knowing where I was going, it still took over an hour to go from Narita to Shinagawa station, where I was all turned around and starving, so by the time I arrived at the hotel, having eaten, and gotten myself organized, it was too late to sightsee.

I asked the concierge about advice as to where to start my Tokyo visit, and she was determined that all sights were closed and it was best to go shopping. She sent me to Shibuya Crossing, the busiest intersection in the world. The trains were packed by that time, with thousands of men in white shirts and dark trousers. Shinegawa station was already overwhelming when I started, and when I arrived at Shibuya, there were door to door people in front of the train station. Tourists were taking photographs of the crossing, where all crosswalks in every different direction turn green at once, and crowds of pedestrians cross in a wave together. I watched while the light changed two or three times, then looked for the statue of Hachiko, an Akira dog who accompanied his master to the train station and picked him up daily, and continued to do so for ten years after his master died at work. There were so many people milling about, that the dog was difficult to find. The crowd was young and energetic. Tokyo is generally a young city. I see fewer elderly, the pace seems fast and furious.

I decided to walk to Meiji shrine, but became lost in the crowds until I passed the NHK television station building and found myself in Yoyogi park, where suddenly I was alone with the crows squawking above me. I was astonished at all the green space, not my image of Tokyo at all. There were couples on blankets in the grass, a young man practicing his saxophone, some people playing frisbee, a group of martial artists, cyclists, a rose garden, fountains, and entirely empty places. I found myself walking in circles, and it took some time to find my way to the Meiji shrine, which was closing as I arrived.

I contented myself with joining the crowds on the shopping streets near the shrine. Omotesando was full of high end shops and avid shoppers. I found my way to 'Cat street', where more unique boutiques and second hand shops ('ragtag', 'pigsty') joined Columbia and Patagonia and 'Jeanosia'. I continued in a circle and ended up at Shibuya station without intending to do so. When I returned to Shinegawa, I became lost in the food shop 'Queen Setan', where I was delighted with the incredible choice and variety of foodstuffs. I am sure we have as much variety in New York, but perhaps because it is all so different, I was entirely intrigued and compulsively examined everything. Food from all over the world, including 'Eataly' in New York, was available, but the signage was all in Japanese and often I really had no idea what I was looking at. I decided I needed some yoghurt for dinner, but there were all sorts of cartons that may have been yoghurt, but I was not sure, and I did not ask until I had decided on something. I should have asked more questions, but no one appeared to speak any English. Fruit was frighteningly expensive, with a small handful of grapes costing $16. I bought a small glass of orange juice for $6. Eric and I had had coffee in Sapporo for $8 each, so I should not have been surprised. I expected high prices for food.

The restaurants were full, the grocery store was full, the station was full of people, and suddenly I wanted to be silent and still and away from all the activity. Usually I love to be around all the noise and energy, but I found myself needing a quiet moment, which I found in my hotel room.

I wanted to see more of Tokyo, and talked to my concierge again about how to organize myself in the next couple of days, so that I can get a feel for the city. I have big plans for tomorrow!

No comments:

Post a Comment